Flash floods have become a frequent phenomenon in the Four Corners region due to intense summer rains. In his book, “Burntwater,” Scott Thybony shares a memorable journey involving an unusual flash flood encounter during a challenging 12-day hike through the Grand Canyon with his brother. His experience is detailed in this month’s Canyon Commentary.
During their trek, Thybony and his brother heard a persistent rushing sound reminiscent of wind in trees, indicating approaching floodwaters. They found refuge on higher ground, waiting for the flood to arrive. Instead of a dramatic wall of water, they witnessed a slow-moving flood, described by Thybony as “a flood without much flash.”
As they continued their journey from Nankoweap Canyon to Tapeats, the brothers walked alongside the flood’s edge. The rain persisted throughout their trek, and their minimal gear excluded a tent or stove. That evening, seeking shelter, they found themselves in the Grand Canyon’s Inner Gorge, characterized by its dark Precambrian rock. Thybony managed to find a narrow crevice wide enough for two; despite its cramped conditions, it was dry.
At sunrise, the floodwaters had risen, creating a churning, muddy creek that they needed to cross. They discovered a narrow point where a log partially bridged the flood. Thybony describes the precarious crossing, stating, “Keeping my pack on, I unbuckled the waist strap in case of a slip.” Both brothers managed to cross safely and continued toward the Tonto plateau.
As they trekked across the plateau, they encountered unusual conditions for a typically arid region. Streams of water flowed alongside cacti, and wet earth clung to their boots. They pressed on, largely silent, each absorbed in their thoughts amid the relentless rain.
After nearly two weeks, their journey concluded at the North Rim’s Crazy Jug Canyon. The brothers emerged onto the expansive plateau, feeling the weight of their packs fade into familiarity. Thybony reflects on the journey as a turning point, noting, “We called this the end of the trip, but it was only a shift in directions.”
Scott Thybony is a Flagstaff-based writer whose Canyon Commentaries are featured on KNAU Arizona Public Radio, airing on the last Friday of every month.
Sponsored by Grand Canyon Adventures, offering guided tours of the South Rim, Antelope Canyon, and Sedona.
Interestingly, the renowned naturalist John Muir spent a year exploring Arizona’s Petrified Forest. Thybony’s latest Canyon Commentary delves into Muir’s desert explorations.
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