In a corner of eastern Arizona, a culinary transformation is taking place within the White Mountain Apache Reservation. Nephi Craig, a renowned Indigenous chef, has established Café Gozhóó, a restaurant that champions Western Apache cuisine. Craig, who is also the founder of the Native American Culinary Association, has had a remarkable journey from overcoming addiction to becoming a leader in the culinary world.
Before his current success, Craig faced a challenging path with numerous attempts at rehabilitation. Presently, he is dedicated to his role as the nutritional recovery program coordinator at a tribally-operated treatment facility in Whiteriver.
Nephi Craig’s new memoir, “Our Knives Will Save Us: Dispatches From a White Mountain Apache Chef,” sheds light on his experiences growing up on the White Mountain Apache Reservation and the Navajo Nation, his culinary evolution, and his struggle with addiction. Craig will discuss his book at the Bright Side Bookshop in Flagstaff on Aug. 3, where he will also sign copies of his memoir.
Rediscovering Indigenous Contributions to Cuisine
In an interview with Chris Clements from KNAU, Craig elaborated on the cultural erasure of Indigenous contributions to global cuisine. He remarked, “The erasure I’m referring to is the historical facts of how Indigenous people have contributed to world cuisine, from an agricultural, scientific, and cooking standpoint.” Craig emphasized that many American foods are rooted in Indigenous cultivars, yet this is often overlooked.
Craig noted that this erasure affects the identity and ancestral knowledge of Native peoples. He sees the current efforts to revive Indigenous food culture as a vital step in reclaiming their history. However, he acknowledges that some individuals resist these efforts.
The Journey of Recovery and Hope
Discussing his memoir, Craig hopes to provide a new perspective on addiction recovery. He stated, “Recovery from addiction doesn’t happen by going to treatment one time. If it does, that’s awesome. It’s an amazing example of how it can work for some people.” He explained that recovery is often a prolonged process, requiring multiple attempts before achieving lasting sobriety. Through his book, Craig aims to offer hope and solidarity to those on similar journeys.
Healing Through Food
Craig also highlights the power of food to heal historical and intergenerational wounds. He shared, “When you reclaim elements of this food history we’re talking about, that Indigenous foods changed the world forever, you really reconnect with a strength that was there the whole time.” Craig believes that reclaiming Indigenous food culture not only affirms their heritage but also empowers them to create their own narratives, countering the histories written by others.
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