Lost among the echoes of the Grand Canyon, an extraordinary musical journey unfolds. Author Scott Thybony chronicles the unexpected twists and turns of following the Paul Winter Consort, a group known for blending natural sounds with their unique musical style.
The adventure began when Outside magazine tasked Thybony with covering an album recording in the depths of the Grand Canyon. Paul Winter and his ensemble were completing a series of recordings, capturing the essence of nature’s soundtrack along the Colorado River.
Thybony’s quest led him to the Lees Ferry boat ramp, where a river guide attempted to assist by ferrying him upriver. The guide identified a rental boat onshore, but upon arrival, Thybony found the camp deserted and left a note before seeking shelter from an impending storm. As the rain passed, he noticed a boat heading upstream, prompting him to follow through dense vegetation—a journey that extended into an unexpected overnight campout.
With the morning light, Thybony continued until he met a formidable water barrier. The river, at a brisk 48 degrees, was shallow enough to wade through but quickly deepened, forcing him to flag down passing fishermen for a ride. After a series of rides with no sign of the musicians, one fisherman’s offer to return him to Lees Ferry with promises of food and beer was tempting. Yet, he recognized the rental boat, choosing instead to disembark and investigate further.
Reuniting with the elusive crew, Thybony learned from the group’s cook that the musicians had been operating under the radar, using a decoy camp due to permit issues. As conversations unfolded, Paul Winter and his fellow musicians, John Clark and Paul McCandless, explained their plans to record at a midnight session in a nearby box canyon, aptly named “Bach’s Canyon.”
In the late afternoon, the team embarked on their trek, carrying a soprano sax, French horn, and oboe. Winter revealed the chosen location was selected for its acoustic qualities, mirroring those of the Cathedral of St. John the Divine in New York City.
Upon entering the narrow passage, the canyon’s sandstone walls rose impressively overhead, creating a cathedral-like silence. As midnight approached, moonlight illuminated the canyon’s rim and the musicians began to play. Their haunting melodies intertwined with the natural sounds, creating a symphony that seemed to emerge from the canyon’s core, resonating with a profound beauty.
The next day, Thybony inquired about the nature of their music. Winter responded, “Our music last night was nature happening through us, within us.”
Scott Thybony is a Flagstaff-based writer. His Canyon Commentaries are produced by KNAU Arizona Public Radio.
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