The Sierra Madre Journey: From Rustic Adventure to Luxurious Comfort
Scott Thybony’s expedition through Mexico’s Sierra Madre illustrates a striking contrast between rugged exploration and opulent travel. Years after his initial venture into the remote canyonlands, Thybony revisited the region aboard a luxury train, evoking vivid memories of his original trek. This experience, shared in his monthly Canyon Commentary, unveils the profound changes in travel over time.
Our journey commenced from Tucson, with the train gradually ascending from Mexico’s coastal plains to the highlands of the Sierra Madre, ultimately reaching the Barranca del Cobre. The ascent of more than 8,000 feet transitions passengers from tropical landscapes of parrots and palm trees to the alpine environment of Apache pine and fir.
The allure of a luxury train voyage was compelling, despite Thybony’s initial reluctance. National Geographic’s endorsement of this route as one of the world’s best train journeys is well-deserved. The railway wends its way through the canyon, hugging cliffs while the river cascades below. Passengers engage in leisurely activities, enjoying constant views, conversation, and meals.
During the journey, Thybony conversed with Andy Anderson, a pecan grower from Texas, who humorously remarked on his preference for vehicles over animals, stating, “I don’t ride nothing that don’t burn diesel.” Anderson further expressed his contentment with pecan trees over pets, emphasizing their permanence by saying, “Put a pecan tree in the ground and tell it to stay. Come back in 50 years and it will still be there.”
Thybony’s current journey resurrected memories of his initial adventure 25 years earlier. Without the luxury of modern comforts, he and a small group had slept on a railway platform in Los Mochis, later boarding a second-class train filled with loggers. Their aim was to backpack into the Barranca del Cobre, unaware of the challenges ahead.
Once descending into the canyon by mail truck, the group faced the daunting task of navigating a nearly impassable riverbed, which compelled them to climb over boulders. A fortuitous encounter with a trail led them to the Tarahumara Indians’ territory, although direct contact was avoided. Discovering an uninhabited rock shelter, they observed remnants of daily life, reminiscent of ancient Southwestern sites.
Back in the present, Thybony’s train halted at the canyon’s edge, presenting a vista where the rimrock plunges into vast emptiness. Visitors passed Tarahumara women selling traditional pine-needle baskets, their attire vivid with brightly-colored skirts and full blouses.
The following morning, after an overnight stay at a lodge, the dawn’s light revealed the canyon’s highest cliffs. A dog’s bark resonated through the stillness, echoing across the landscape. Roosters from distant ranches exchanged calls, creating a symphony of morning sounds.
Over dinner, Anderson humorously pondered, “Do you reckon this is the rooster that woke me up this morning?” as he carved his chicken. The journey concluded with a return to Arizona after covering 1,300 miles. Thybony reflected on the comfort of first-class travel, recognizing it as a trade-off for the raw adventure and unpredictability of his earlier expedition.
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